If you are in the mood for a pristine Christmas getaway, consider visiting the first French town in North America. Born 400 years ago, Old Quebec is bitterly cold and a trifle dark during the wintry months. Holiday lights glow underneath dazzling stars. We arrived at night, or it could have been late afternoon, so hard to tell when the wind snaps off the St Lawrence River and the sun hides behind snow clouds.
My go-go family wanted to embrace the historic city despite the rain and black ice blanketing the city. In my usual Southern attire, my cotton sweater nearly froze against my Barbour coat. I wore lambskin thigh boots on a daylong walking tour, only to realize cotton and leather are terrible choices for icy climates. One must stick to wool, cashmere, shearling and rubbery products to keep out the moisture that clings to the sidewalks and buildings while fighting off the Arctic wind.
The Frontenac Hotel
We stayed at the romantic Fairmont le Chateau Frontenac, famed as being the greatest hotel in the world and one of Old Quebec’s several UNESCO World Heritage sites. If the opulent art deco furnishings were good enough for the queen of Quebec, Celine Dion, and Queen if England, Elizabeth II, then color me there. During the holidays, the hotel hosted Christmas trees to complement the old world carvings and gilded details.
The Frontenac provided free tours showcasing architectural details and artwork, beer tasting classes, and priority seating at the renowned culinary gastronomies on site, that’s restaurants in English. It was best to make reservations at the Champlain, Bar 1608, Place Dufferin or Sam bistro evolutif before arriving. The hotel was open to the public for most meals and seating became sparse with long lines. We managed to be seated at the Bar 1608 on an evening the hotel limited access by giving hotel guests priority. The bar was cozy yet contemporary with historical overtones. The food featured cheese and honied fruit. The hotel tour took us to the hidden gems and shared celebrity names of previous guests. The beer tasting class demonstrated the proper, as well as, least desirable ways to consume the Canadian brewskis.
The holiday decorations were astounding and drew in crowds, but the gift shop stole the show. I typically don’t buy anything while traveling since my family insists on only toting carry-on luggage. Whenever I’ve dared to break the carry-on rule, my family mutinies, insisting their timing was derailed while waiting for my bag. The pressure to follow the rules was typically not worth the joy of having an extra pair of shoes. This Frontenac shop inspired me to purchase gloves and hats worthy of the North Pole’s temperature. They were the best purchases I’ve made in my entire life. In my cotton and leather wardrobe, the only part of my body that wasn’t cold was my head. I gifted wool socks to lucky recipients and after spending a week walking on ice, I plan to be armed with wool on my next Christmas destination trip.
Old Town
While it was certainly tempting to hang out in the hotel, my adventurous family burst through the frosty doors with hot chocolate in hand and embraced the harsh outdoors. A toboggan track was located outside the front doors that overlook the cliffside shops. Expect moderately priced stores with winter apparel and boots galore. Novelty popcorn shops and cavernous bars guaranteed an old world experience.
Old Quebec was compact and easy to navigate on foot. The rolling city boasted museums with the history of surviving battles and winter storms. The town was originally settled with military fortresses, Basque fisherman, and French Catholic missionaries. Brave nuns willing to travel to the once desolate area taught American Indians how to read inside the Marie de I’incarnation, a Ursulines monastery where the first school for young girls was established. The church preserved the notable spiritual leaders’ relics within display cases above the chapel.
One of my favorite spots was the Hotel-Dieu where the Augustinian nuns established the first permanent hospital in Canada at the Monastere des Augustines. Their high cure rate was a result of their apothecary skills. The nuns planted and mixed together the medicines used to treat the French and American Indian patients. Those same nuns embroidered alter frontals and liturgical vestments, and many pieces have survived to this day. The nuns and students practiced silence during dinnertime and only received visitors in a parlor behind a screen.
The German Marketplace
To embrace the romantic setting, we walked up the cliffside stairs, deep into the shopping district. A German Christmas marketplace provided live music and masterfully carved household goods. We met the German Santa and danced with rhinestone angels, smoked long-stemmed pipes, drank authentic German beer and indulged in European treats. Every year, the marketplace began on the Advent’s fourth Sunday before Christmas, 11:00 am to 9:00 pm, and ended on December 24th. Limited festival activities continued from December 27th to December 31st.
Old Quebec gave an ominous mood with its strong church presence. The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity was the first Anglican church outside Britain. Built in 1800, the church holds the King’s Gift, a silver Communion Service from King George III. The Arms of King George III on a royal pew and a rare English chamber organ were among the valued elements. The Notre Dame des Victories Church was the oldest stone structure in Canada. A water shuttle carried Pope Francis to the Sainte Anne de Beaupre Shrine when he was on a mission to connect with indigenous people. Additional cemeteries, religious sites and monuments set the tone of the city.
The Holy Door
As we explored the city, I was fascinated with how Old Quebec created a platform for the Spirit of Christmas. In searching for the well-known nativity scene, I discovered a once in a lifetime experience. The Cathedral-Basicilica Notre Dame de Quebec was one of seven churches on the planet with a Holy Door. The Holy Door symbolized one’s passing from the material world to the spiritual realm. After being authorized by the Holy See, the Vatican gifted the bronze Holy Door as a celebration of the church’s 350th anniversary since becoming the first Catholic church in North America. The church and its founding priest were credited with being responsible for Catholicism spreading across North America.
Crafted by Jules LaSalle, the bronze Holy Door portrayed an opened-armed Christ on the exterior and a headshot of Mary surrounded by papal figures on the interior. Private donations of $500,000 were raised by the Knights of Columbus Supreme Council, the Quebec State Council, and the 10 Canadian State Councils. Its purpose was to invite a renewed faith for the 18 million North Americans descended from ancestors who were baptized or married at the church. The door paid homage to the 12 Saints, and 13 Blesseds who established the church.
Everyone, regardless of faith, was welcome to take the Pilgrim’s Garden Path to reach the sealed door’s exterior. After time for contemplation, pilgrims may touch the carved image of Jesus.
On special occasions the Pope will ordain having the Holy Door opened. In 2015, Pope Francis unsealed all Holy Doors to signify a year of Jubilee of Mercy for those suffering under violence, terrorism, or wars. The Holy Door was opened in 2023 for its ten year anniversary, and was resealed on December 8, 2024. It was anticipated to open in 2025 for the Universal Catholic Church’s Jubilee.
The great news about any Holy Door is that you hit the reset button if you cross over the threshold with a pure heart of redemption. You are to reflect on your journey in seeking truth. All your sins up to that point are relinquished. Your life begins anew. You have a clean slate, a clear path, a renewed spirit.
Inside, we were greeted by an alcove featuring Mary where pilgrim’s spend time seeking salvation. Following a gilded path, we reached the chapel. An image of Jesus stood in a unique position above the central nave. He was raising his arm and stepping onto a globe. We proceeded to the sarcophagus of the church’s founder, Saint Francois de Laval on our way to reach the Altar of the Holy Family. The pilgrimage concluded with prayer and meditations in the Holy Door Garden.
Old Quebec City offers historic education, romantic dining, luxurious accommodations, and spiritual awakenings. It is quite a package of celebratory events in one tight-knit, easily walkable town. Trust me, it’s worth the plummeting temperatures and freezing rainfalls. Just be sure to wear wool, shearling and waterproof for both clothing and footwear. Otherwise, plan to snuggle beside a warm fireplace with a steaming cup of cocoa.
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